Author Topic: Frame sliders (A9788014)  (Read 3984 times)

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Offline aardvark9

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Re: Frame sliders (A9788014)
Reply #20 on: September 12, 2021, 06:34:56 AM
On my track-only D765, I use the Woodcraft frame sliders for the 675R, they sit behind the track fairing, they *may* work with the street fairings, not sure.  I believe the T-Rex frame sliders will work too but they're big and not particularly pretty.  Some people believe that large frame sliders that stick out too far can also be risky in the event of a slide and flipping the bike.

The Triumph OE ones were pretty slick, I had them on my old 675R but they're pretty hard to come by now.

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Re: Frame sliders (A9788014)
Reply #21 on: September 12, 2021, 12:59:15 PM
 :028:
*Originally Posted by aardvark9 [+]
On my track-only D765, I use the Woodcraft frame sliders for the 675R, they sit behind the track fairing, they *may* work with the street fairings, not sure.  I believe the T-Rex frame sliders will work too but they're big and not particularly pretty.  Some people believe that large frame sliders that stick out too far can also be risky in the event of a slide and flipping the bike.

The Triumph OE ones were pretty slick, I had them on my old 675R but they're pretty hard to come by now.

Was looking for an option until I get track fairings and turn it into a track bike. If Woodcraft is behind the fairings it doesn't make sense, it won't protect the carbon. I saw the T-Rex ones, they stick out indeed.

What fairings did you go with? Are the 675R a direct fit or need to contact manufacturers that don't have the 765 listed to make them for 765 specifically?
Last Edit: September 12, 2021, 01:01:18 PM by solaris

Offline aardvark9

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Re: Frame sliders (A9788014)
Reply #22 on: September 12, 2021, 02:16:21 PM
I'm using the Motoxpricambi fairings, the quality is good and ultimately it saved a lot of money since they arrive pre-painted and they were originally on my 2013 675R and they went straight onto the 765.  The only thing I had to do was tap two bolt holes in the subframe for the superbike tail section. 

In order to protect the original fairings, you'd probably need something that sticks out a good amount.  Speaking from experience, I am not a fan of those having low-sided and then the frame slider caught in the dirt and flipped the bike, dramatically compounding my repair costs.  I now look at fairings as sacrificial parts.

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Re: Frame sliders (A9788014)
Reply #23 on: September 14, 2021, 05:48:24 AM
*Originally Posted by aardvark9 [+]
I'm using the Motoxpricambi fairings, the quality is good and ultimately it saved a lot of money since they arrive pre-painted and they were originally on my 2013 675R and they went straight onto the 765.  The only thing I had to do was tap two bolt holes in the subframe for the superbike tail section. 

In order to protect the original fairings, you'd probably need something that sticks out a good amount.  Speaking from experience, I am not a fan of those having low-sided and then the frame slider caught in the dirt and flipped the bike, dramatically compounding my repair costs.  I now look at fairings as sacrificial parts.

I'd strongly prefer to not put holes in the 765 frame. Do all 675 fairings require this procedure or are there other manufacturers that don't require to modify the 765?
I'm new to Daytonas, and trying to figure out what did I get into  :001:

I'm also super surprised that the quick shifter can't be reversed to GP style. For track is a must, what did they have in mind... Not sure what options are out there? Do you have an idea why they say in the manual that the quick shifter should/cannot be used on the track?

Really appreciate it!
Last Edit: September 14, 2021, 05:49:57 AM by solaris

Offline aardvark9

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Re: Frame sliders (A9788014)
Reply #24 on: September 14, 2021, 08:24:27 AM
Nope, no holes in the frame, the 3 different frame sliders I've used replace the upper engine mounting bolts with longer bolts and plastic sliders that attach to the bolts.







The stock shift assembly doesn't handle race/GP shift, you'll need different rear sets or shift assembly.  Speaking from experience, the Attack rear sets for the 2013-17 do fit but it's tight and you may need to offset the left side a bit in order to prevent the shift linkage from coming into contact with the swingarm.  The Attack rear sets will do standard or race shift with only moving the linkage to a different connector.

I instead went with a custom shift linkage however the Woodcraft race shift linkage should work fine.  If you go with this type of linkage you will need to reverse the trigger wires on the quickshifter harness.  I did continue with the Attack footpeg portion.  I also switched to a different TransLogic shift sensor that makes it easier to fit different length shift rods but that's not strictly necessary.  Personally, I could take or leave race/GP shift.  There are areas where I prefer it, others I'd prefer the standard shift.  It's not a deal breaker for me.



Last Edit: September 14, 2021, 08:37:48 AM by aardvark9

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Re: Frame sliders (A9788014)
Reply #25 on: September 14, 2021, 04:16:05 PM
*Originally Posted by aardvark9 [+]
Nope, no holes in the frame, the 3 different frame sliders I've used replace the upper engine mounting bolts with longer bolts and plastic sliders that attach to the bolts.

The stock shift assembly doesn't handle race/GP shift, you'll need different rear sets or shift assembly.  Speaking from experience, the Attack rear sets for the 2013-17 do fit but it's tight and you may need to offset the left side a bit in order to prevent the shift linkage from coming into contact with the swingarm.  The Attack rear sets will do standard or race shift with only moving the linkage to a different connector.

I instead went with a custom shift linkage however the Woodcraft race shift linkage should work fine.  If you go with this type of linkage you will need to reverse the trigger wires on the quickshifter harness.  I did continue with the Attack footpeg portion.  I also switched to a different TransLogic shift sensor that makes it easier to fit different length shift rods but that's not strictly necessary.  Personally, I could take or leave race/GP shift.  There are areas where I prefer it, others I'd prefer the standard shift.  It's not a deal breaker for me.


Thanks for explanations and pictures.
The thing with race shift is, I've already switched on my SuperDuke (and get used to it) and it's hard to rewire my brain to use the standard shifting  :008:

Help me clarify some things:
1. You said you needed to put some holes in the frame for the tail section I think, that's where my question was. Are there complete kits front, side, under and rear that'll just fit the whole bike without mods.
2. QS: so, from what I see in the pictures, you currently sport Attack rear sets and foot peg (which is separate) and TransLogic, but you're saying Woodcraft works just fine instead of Translogic, right?
3. Any idea why the manual says TSA (Triumph Shift Assist) "must not be used during off road or track riding"? I obviously want to use QS functionality at the track.
Last Edit: September 14, 2021, 04:17:19 PM by solaris

Offline aardvark9

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Re: Frame sliders (A9788014)
Reply #26 on: September 14, 2021, 05:02:55 PM
Help me clarify some things:
1. You said you needed to put some holes in the frame for the tail section I think, that's where my question was. Are there complete kits front, side, under and rear that'll just fit the whole bike without mods.
2. QS: so, from what I see in the pictures, you currently sport Attack rear sets and foot peg (which is separate) and TransLogic, but you're saying Woodcraft works just fine instead of Translogic, right?
3. Any idea why the manual says TSA (Triumph Shift Assist) "must not be used during off road or track riding"? I obviously want to use QS functionality at the track.

1. Right, I did tap 2 holes just in the subframe which simply secure the tail section--it's easy enough to do and doesn't compromise anything.  If you're averse to doing that, you can go with a supersport type tail (ArmourBodies and others sell those kits) that use the stock seat and those don't require any additional holes.  I'm working on building my 'feel' on the track and with the stock seat I have trouble telling when the rear is starting to spin so for that reason I prefer the superbike tail.  If cost were no object, I'd definitely go ArmourBodies for their bodywork kit--it's so well done and the material is more flexible than that of the others.  I wanted a pretty bike so ~1k USD for bodywork plus another ~1k for paint was more than I wanted to spend.  Motoxpricambi was delivered painted to my house for about 1100 USD so that's the route I went.  I've got probably 50 or 60 track days on it and it's holding up well.  There are a couple of moto2 bodywork kits in Europe that look pretty cool but I don't know about the materials.  One thing to note with some of the bodywork kits: if you don't have a full header system on the bike (i.e., just a slip-on), you may have to trim the track belly pan to clear the pipe, I had to with mine.  I've not done a header and dynotune on my bike yet and probably won't until my skills are to the point where I'd benefit from it.  The stock fueling is really good on the bike.
2. Yup, Attack rear sets and pegs.  The OEM QS sensor is a TransLogic unit there so nothing special there and completely unnecessary to replace the stock one, it just allowed me more setup options.  TBH, knowing what I do now, if I didn't have any of the parts I'd either go Woodcraft for the whole rear set/shift linkage setup or I'd take a look at what UK Race Support offers.  They're very knowledgeable on Triumph stuff.  I had the Attack rear sets left over from my 2013 Daytona and liked them, it was the shift linkage that was too tight on the clearance of the swingarm which resulted in my custom shift linkage.  AP is pretty popular at the tracks I ride and they're California-based so spares are easy to come by.  I also keep a complete Woodcraft shift linkage set in my track box as a spare too.
3. I have no idea why the manual says anything like that about the TSA, it works BEST on track, IMO!

Here's a pic of the superbike tail section, the two bolts near the front of it (closest to the tank) are where I had to tap the subframe.  It has developed a couple of hairline cracks so if/when it does break I'll just get the ArmourBodies tail or maybe I'll bite the bullet and go with a full ArmourBodies set and custom paint.  I do kind of fancy a black/gray paint job.




Offline aardvark9

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Re: Frame sliders (A9788014)
Reply #27 on: September 14, 2021, 06:11:39 PM
A couple more considerations with regard to rear sets....

1.  When going to aftermarket rear sets, you'll likely find that the stock rear brake line is a little short.  Because I wanted to retain ABS, I had a customer rear brake line made which quickly remedied that issue.[/li][/list]
2.  Another later discovery was that I was getting inconsistent performance from my QS, but only at high revs (near redline) going from 3-4 and 4-5.  As it turns out, it was because I had removed the rear brake switch.  Thanks to this forum the issue was identified and I made a bypass plug for the rear brake light because the switch talks to the ECU.  Another alternative is to leave the stock switch intact and just zip-tie it out of the way.

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Re: Frame sliders (A9788014)
Reply #28 on: September 15, 2021, 02:02:52 AM
    *Originally Posted by aardvark9 [+]
    A couple more considerations with regard to rear sets....

    1.  When going to aftermarket rear sets, you'll likely find that the stock rear brake line is a little short.  Because I wanted to retain ABS, I had a customer rear brake line made which quickly remedied that issue.[/li][/list]
    2.  Another later discovery was that I was getting inconsistent performance from my QS, but only at high revs (near redline) going from 3-4 and 4-5.  As it turns out, it was because I had removed the rear brake switch.  Thanks to this forum the issue was identified and I made a bypass plug for the rear brake light because the switch talks to the ECU.  Another alternative is to leave the stock switch intact and just zip-tie it out of the way.

    Awesome info, thanks for all the input. Is there a dyi if I need to change the trigger wires on the quickshifter harness, or Woodcraft sends them with instructions?

    Offline aardvark9

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    Re: Frame sliders (A9788014)
    Reply #29 on: September 15, 2021, 02:30:03 AM
    With regard to re-wiring the QS sensor, you very delicately disassemble the QS plug and do the following:
    Per Andy Brookes (ops mgr @ Translogic)
    “You can use the sensor for race shift.  You will need to swap over the red and blue wired pins in the connector to get the correct signal for race shift.”
    Posted in the Triumph Moto2 Daytona 765 Owners & Fans Group on FB

    No instructions anywhere else that I found.  I believe stock color sequence is green-blue-red and then you swap the blue and red and then it works.  There's a yellow insert that pops out inside the plug, then you push on the pin's tab from inside the connector and pull it out at the same time.


     


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    yeasty-need