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« Last post by Ant142 on Yesterday at 09:51:15 pm »
I'm after some help.
I didn't use my Moto 2 last year (only done 1600 miles) and when I went to get it out at the start of the year the battery had failed. I used jump pack and got it going, rode it to work and replace the battery. It started fine after and was started again a week or so later for mot no problems.
A couple of weeks later I was going to use it and it will not start. The ignition lights the dash up but the kill switch does not seem to do anything. I have no fuel pump prime, no engine management light and no gear indicator displayed on the dash. I have checked the obvious (it's not the battery!), checked fuses, checked nothing has come unplugged in the switch gear etc and I also have no communication with the ecu.
Any help with troubleshooting appreciated. If anyone could supply a wiring diagram that would be most helpful.
Thanks
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« Last post by conradical on May 30, 2023, 03:56:24 am »
I got this done on saturday with a mate. Took a few hours to figure it out so no video, but I've got a ton of photos of the various steps and pitfalls we ran into. I'll upload them later this week with some commentary and hopefully will be useful to others. ALSO noting: as of [sometime recently], there is now an official Woodcraft rearset for our bike that is...very clear exactly the same as the Sato one, so installation should be the same for both. https://woodcraft-cfm.com/collections/all/products/triumph-moto-2-2020-2023-gp-shift
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« Last post by Cookiez on May 29, 2023, 11:39:26 pm »
So I’ve been riding pretty consistently, love my dm2, got it new and did first service and all, come to its first wash and after soaking and drying it a few times I had random settings popping up on the display. Few hours later or a day or so its like the water with the wiring was dry again and it stopped. Well now last night I got rained on going home and the killswitch (?) will activate in gear or in neutral when rolling the bike at low speed, like at a stop or coming up to a stop sign. I suspect something is tripping the killswitch in the handlebars.
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« Last post by Pangowin on May 27, 2023, 03:15:35 am »
I've used the Lightech cap and currently have the Driven cap and both work great.
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« Last post by aardvark9 on May 25, 2023, 11:37:34 pm »
I did a bunch of trips on my Street Triple which uses the same gas cap and never encountered a problem. My D765 is track-only and I did replace the stock gas cap with a Driven Halo setup. Kind of expensive but it looks trick and works well.
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« Last post by Coolflame on May 25, 2023, 07:51:18 pm »
i recently did a 700 mile trip and midway through noticed that when trying to put my key into the gas cap there was a lot of resistance, has anyone else had this issue? and does anyone have recommendations on aftermarket gas caps?
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« Last post by Coolflame on May 25, 2023, 07:48:12 pm »
Can you provide some details on part numbers to do the whole thing?
yes and how it's mounted to the bike as well please
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« Last post by Coolflame on May 25, 2023, 07:47:03 pm »
Awesome thank you, will be taking a crack at it this weekend, will follow up with any questions I run into
Did you figure out the rear brake light switch that others have commented on? I'm not actually sure what that piece even looks like yet until I get to work on the thing
yes the way that the rear sets are made you will have the ability to change the angle of in in relation to the rear brake (they use a little screw coming off the lever for you to attach a spring to hook into the sensor.[I'll see of I can't find a way to upload a picture), and when I installed it the angle was off so once I would press the rear brake down it wouldn't fully go all the way up (the rear brake wasn't engaged) for the sensor to tell the ecu that I'm not pressing the rear brake and would then cause throttle cuts at high rmp in 4-6 gear. the way I fixed it was to just remove the spring due to me not using the rear brake ever.
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« Last post by conradical on May 25, 2023, 05:36:19 am »
hey i apologize that i didn't see this sooner but for some reason no one has a video for our bikes when it comes to removing the qs from the oem rear sets but what i had to do was remove the clip and then completely disassemble the oem rear sets and then unscrew the qs from the shifter. I'd also like to add that you won't need to remove the tank, at least i didn't mind you it most likely would of been easier to take the tank off to disconnect the qs, but not required. please feel free to ask any questions if you need help installing them
Awesome thank you, will be taking a crack at it this weekend, will follow up with any questions I run into Did you figure out the rear brake light switch that others have commented on? I'm not actually sure what that piece even looks like yet until I get to work on the thing
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« Last post by aardvark9 on May 25, 2023, 03:23:33 am »
Can you provide some details on part numbers to do the whole thing?
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Originally Posted by aardvark9 ![[+]](https://www.daytona765.com/vbicons/viewpostright.png "View Post")